25th May 2013
I have gone full circle back to the Nikon F5 with Nikkor 24-85mm F2.8-4 AF-D lens that I bought at Christmas, which I hadn’t put more than 3 rolls through.
But now, with the help of Ilford Delta 100, processed in Ilford DD-X in a controlled way (2 turns at the start, then 1 turn every minute), and printed on Kentmore VC Lustre paper, I may have sharp film !
(click on images to enlarge for more detail)
The Lilly’s in the vase were taken using my Nikon SB-80DX flash, the perfect combination for the Nikon F5 to balance flash and ambient light outdoors.
I think I’ll shoot some portraits next. May be try Ilford Pan F 50 ISO, to really get the fine details.
Posted by PeopleMakePictures on May 25, 2013
12th May 2013
I tested my Canon FD 200mm f4 lens on my Canon AE1-P.
It’s a really nice combination and the Canon is a joy to use. The F4 lens is a little dark, but manageable in bright light.
I tested it against my Nikon F80 135mm f2.8 AIS, below.
The combination is also a joy. The battery operated film advancement can be an advantage over the Canon’s thumb film advancement. The Nikon lens is bright and easy to focus. If you’re not sure you have correct focus, you can glance to the bottom left of the view finder to check the small green light has come on.
I used Ilford FP4+ film in both cameras and printed in Kentmore VC Lustre paper. Which by the way, develops in 15 seconds and doesn’t really change after 45 seconds. So if you want to work quickly, with near Ilford VC results, then it’s a great paper.
Both portraits are grainy. I’m still not happy I can’t get “sharp film” images. Maybe its the FP4+ or the low light conditions. Next time I’ll try a flash to capture the sharpness.
I copied the head shots on my smartphone camera, so they are not the best quality, but OK for this exercise. I have a Canon printer/scanner, so might use that next time.
When I look at the real prints they look good enough to “sell” as a commissioned work. I can’t say which is the better print quality between a 1980′s fully manual Canon, or a 1990′s electronic Nikon (shot on manual).
I used my Polaris light meter for available light.
I believe both lens had great reviews when they were released, so maybe there is no real difference, and they are both quality glass.
The only niggle is that unlike the Nikon AIS lens which will fit on a brand new Nikon camera and still give excellent results, albeit a manual focus lens, the Canon lens will NOT fit on a new Canon camera. A shame really.
Posted by PeopleMakePictures on May 13, 2013
1st May 2013
I bought this Nikon 135mm f2.8 AIS manual focus prime lens from Mr Cad at 50% off. Only cost me £66. What a great deal.
I attached it to my Nikon F80 and shot a roll of Ilford Delta 100 and developed and printed as previously described, on 7 x 5 Pearl.
I did no dodging or burning on this print, its straight off the negative, with no flash or reflectors on the shoot. It’s a great print.
I then did the test strip below with the enlarger at its maximum height which would have produced a 25 x 17 inch print. The detail from this combination of prime lens and film is superb, considering the image has been enlarged in surface area by 300 fold.
I’m puzzled why I didn’t buy classic prime lens before, if they give results way over the modern zoom lens. And I don’t mind the manual focusing either. I’m relaxed with it.
Note: All images transferred from my Samsung phone camera, as usual.
Posted by PeopleMakePictures on May 4, 2013
22nd April 2013
I’m trying to get the same sharpness using film, as I do using Digital. Can it be done?
I used a Mamiya 645 Pro medium format camera with a 80mm lens and shot a couple of rolls of Fomapan 400, and spent Sunday afternoon processing the film in Ilford DD-X chemical and printed the negatives as proofs.
The camera is a serious Pro model, but the film is average/general use.
I think the proofs look good.
I shot people and places around Lytham St Anne’s UK and was looking for a mix of images, from portraits to landscapes so I can gauge the sharpness when I print them with my new 80mm enlarger lens later in the week.
I’m ordering some Ilford 120 film next week and looking forward to seeing what the sharpness of pro film is like compared to digital.
How did pro’s get sharp images before digital?
Note: All prints were taken on my Samsung Galaxy smart phone camera, emailed back to me, and uploaded to this post.
Posted by PeopleMakePictures on April 22, 2013
12th April 2013
I am fascinated how you control flash and ambient light in the same shot. I experimented shooting against the ‘Golden Hour’ sun with flash to lift the shadows, and increased the shutter speed by 1 or 2 stops to darken the ambient light and frame the subject using correct flash exposure.
I used my Nikon F80 camera with 50mm f1.8 prime lens, with Nikon SB-80DX flash, with Solaris light meter.
I metered for the ambient light, setting the camera and flash to manual.
Then bracketed my flash power from 1/2…1/4…1/8…1/16…settings to see which worked best for the distance and aperture.
I wanted to create the illusion of shooting later in the evening light, when it was actually shot in brighter light, by changing the settings on the camera and the flash to control the out come.
I will use my Nikon F5 next,because it has a flash synch of 1/300, where my F80 is only 1/125 and doesnt give as much room to increase the shutter to reduce the ambient light, hence darkening the back ground.
Note: All shots taken on Ilford Delta 100 Pro, and developed in Ilford DD-X and printed on Ilford MG RC paper.
Posted by PeopleMakePictures on April 15, 2013